Thursday, January 31, 2019

A Week in Florence -- ICHAJ 14 (the reason we went)

The past week has been overflowing with amazing experiences and sensory overload. Florence. the beautiful city in Tuscany, Italy is like that.


We travelled there primarily for the International Conference on the History and Archaeology of Jordan (ICHAJ) where Sten was one of the keynote speakers for the opening session.


The venue was the Salone de Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio -- present day Florence's town hall.




Apparently the original David sculpture of Michaelangelo was at the entry; however, this is a copy and the original has been placed in the Galleria Accademia.


The Salone has an interesting history.  Palazzo Vecchio, including the Salone de Cinquecento (meaning the Hall of the 500), originally was built in 1495 as the place where the representatives of the major families met to govern the city after Piero de Faturo was expelled. Early in the 16th century, Pier Soderini asked Michaelangelo Buonaroti and Leonardo da Vinci each to paint a wall of the hall depicting battle victories of the Republic. Unfortunately, those murals weren't completed because Leonard attempted a new technique which proved to be disastrous (a reminder that even the "great masters" get it wrong sometimes), and Michaelangelo's work was interrupted by a call from Pope Julius II to come to Rome. Only preparatory drawings exist of these works. The decoration of the walls and ceiling were done during the rule of Cosimo I of the Medici family and represent the work of numerous artists of the late 16th century, most notably Giorgio Vasari. There are still rumors that Leonardo's work is under the present day frescoes, but nothing definitive has been discovered. An exciting thought nonetheless.



International conferences are always a wonderful time of  attending colleagues' presentations on their research, connecting with old friends, socializing and making new friends, and -- certainly in Italy -- enjoying delicious food. I attended a few presentations by mutual friends and accompanied Sten to several social events. This presentation by Maria Elena Ronza critically examining her own work over the past ten years in community engagement was particularly thought-provoking.


One evening we ate in a wine cellar and tried some local specialties, including ribollita -- a thick Tuscan vegetable soup, an artichoke appetizer, pasta, and pizza.







Another evening, we were honored to be invited to a dinner hosted by HRH Prince Hassan bin Talal, who is the patron of ICHAJ. Prince Hassan is the brother of the late King Hussein of Jordan and the uncle to King Abdullah. He is active promoting peace and organizations which aim to promote understanding amongst groups of people. For a taste of what he stands for, you can hear his eloquent and inspiring speech at the opening of the conference at this link on YouTube:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIK2xUGfqpI&t=20s

The venue for the dinner had windows overlooking the Cathedral de Santa Maria del Fiore or, as it's usually referred to, the Duomo. The table settings were very beautiful, and the food and service excellent.




The dessert course, "1001 Sweets of Florence."


Prince Hassan acknowledged each guest by name, thanking them for their contributions to Jordan.


To top the evening off, we were entertained in a downstairs room with great acoustics and frescoes on the wall by a string quartet playing a variety of pieces, from well-known Italian operatic arias to more popular folk melodies. Truly an evening to remember.


 I wish you all pace, peace, salam, and shalom.








Thursday, January 24, 2019

Mahane Yehuda Market

Mahane Yehuda Market (also called the "Shuk") in West Jerusalem is a truly exciting place to visit if you enjoy food, cooking, or eating. I think that includes all of us! It has over 250 vendors' stalls with every kind of food product imaginable, as well as many restaurants, cafes, and  eateries of all sorts. A friend took me there last week and we rode the City Light Rail a good part of the way. The train stops right outside the market on Jaffa Road. The market includes a large area between Jaffa and Agrippa Roads -- part is covered and part not. This week, Sten and I decided to make the half hour walk to the market.

Because we were hungry, we decided to find the restaurant my friend took me to last week to get lunch since I enjoyed it very much. It's called Nagila and has vegan and vegetarian menus. It's on a cross street just south of the main market area.



I didn't think about taking photos of our food until we had begun eating, so the plates don't look as pristine as when they were served to us. Mine is a chickpea, sweet potato, green bean, mushroom, and broccoli curry with brown rice.


Sten had a stir-fry with peanuts.


Fortified by the delicious lunch, we headed to the market. Here's a sampling of what we saw.


Spices and spiced mixes 


Sweet breads and pastries


 Olives


Fish



 All sorts of flavors of halva (a fudge-like dessert made from sweetened sesame)


Baklava and other pastries


Candy



Breads, including Sten's favorite dark, heavy rye  


Fresh fruit


All sorts of flavors of tahini and halva


Turkish delight


Dried rose buds


Dried fruits


Even macaroons and petit fours!


Sten spied a place selling crepes where we decided to have dessert.


The crepe maker was huge.


We chose a crepe with Nutella, strawberries, kiwi, and whipped cream.


Satisfied customers!


I'm guessing you might want to go get something to eat if you've come this far. Thanks for joining us on this visit to the market. We wish you Peace. Salam. Shalom.



Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Our digs

Many friends have asked what our living arrangement is like, so I thought I'd fill you in on that. As I mentioned previously, we live at the W. F. Albright Institute of Archaeology, an historic 1920s  Late Ottoman building. Located  on Salah Ad-Din Street, a major artery in East Jerusalem, it's only a few minute walk from the Damascus Gate into the Old City.




The elegant entrance to the Director's apartment is on the other side of the building from us. The public spaces include offices, a library of some 35,000 volumes, lab spaces, lecture/reception hall, gathering space, and a dining room.


Yesterday, I was part of a women's Pilates class for residents which met in the space below. Last week, the same space was used with chairs set up for a lecture.


After the lecture, this adjoining space was the site of a reception for attendees to meet and greet each other and the lecturer.


This living room is used for smaller receptions and adjoins the dining hall and kitchen.



One of the most charming features of the building is the outdoor courtyard. It's not warm enough to use yet, but I know we will spend more time there as the weather warms up.




Our apartment is on the second floor in the wing opposite the director's apartment. The floors are stone tile and the ceilings high. We enter via stairs.



The dining room/entry is the first room, from which all the other rooms branch -- a living room, kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms.







Just opposite our door, we have a balcony that overlooks the courtyard. We've had tea outside on a sunny day once so far, but I envision us eating outside and enjoying the space more as the weather warms up.


The neighborhood around us is full of all sorts of shops -- books, clothes of all kinds, housewares, spices, fresh baked breads, fresh fruits/veggies, coffee shops, falafel and shwarma stands, and restaurants.





A five-minute walk away is a pleasant park with picnic tables, a very extensive playground, and outdoor exercise machines. Just this morning, we went down and used them for an upper body workout.




A favorite spot we've discovered for a break in the day is the Nordic Cafe, which has a simple sandwich/soup menu with some good veggie options, tea/coffee, and dessert veggies (a.k.a. carrot cake). Sten hopes to supply them with a Norwegian flag in the future as they only display the Swedish and Icelandic flags. The space is cozy and relaxed.



My favorite drink option is their ginger mint tea, made with fresh ginger root and fresh mint leaves. Can it get healthier than that?


So now that you know our environs, I wish you Peace. Salam. Shalom. 
P.S. Apparently, the weather forecast is for some snow tonight. It happens every few years.