The Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Garden Tomb

For Christians, probably the most visited sites in Jerusalem are the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and (especially for Protestants) the Garden Tomb. Both are within a few minutes' walk from where we are living, so we have visited numerous times on our daily walks. We also joined an excellent tour led by an Armenian scholar whose family has had a long history with the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The church has a rather inauspicious entrance, squeezed between other buildings in the Old City; however, one can see its domes much better from a higher vantage point. The small plaza outside the main door is usually crowded with people.

The church is built over two major shrines -- Calvary or Golgotha, the place of Jesus' crucifixion, and Jesus' empty tomb. It is the shared property of several religious groups, amongst them are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Coptic Orthodox, Syrian Orthodox, and Ethiopian Orthodox. There are many stories of altercations between the groups, and about the difficulties in accomplishing anything because of the need for everyone to be in agreement. Most famous of these is one about the "immoveable ladder" which has been in this exact position (even though it has had to be replaced because of deterioration) since before 1852.

No Protestant denomination has a presence in this church, which may be why Protestant groups often prefer to visit the Garden Tomb. Below is a diagram of the church structure and shows its many chapels and other areas.

The first place you see on entering the church is pictured below. It is designated by (fairly recent, I'm told) tradition  as the anointing stone upon which Jesus' body was laid to be prepared for burial. Usually someone is kneeling and kissing it, or placing some object on it, or praying with hands outstretched touching it.

The areas of the church designated traditionally as the hill of Calvary or Golgotha are upstairs and in a couple of different locations, depending on the denomination that maintains the area. Sometimes groups move from one location to another in the church, having services with candles, chanting, and readings along the way. We've followed along behind such groups occasion.

This ceiling is made from mosaics. From a distance it looks like paintings. Very beautiful!

The site of the burial is enclosed within a 19th century shrine called the Edicule. People line up and wait for sometimes 1-2 hours to enter  for a few seconds of viewing or contemplation.

Below is a view from above the Edicule and of the waiting line.  The entrance is on the right side.

Here are photos of some of the side chapels. I don't recall which is which as there are many of them and signs are nonexistent.
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On the tour with a guide, because of his connections, we were taken into locked areas of the church not usually open to visitors. One such place was under the church where there have been some archaeological excavations of earlier phases of the church's history. We descended to a chapel via stairs, where pilgrims over the years have marked their presence with hundreds of graffiti crosses in the stone walls. There were also places where they have carved out bits of the wall to take home in small jars to sell to believers as "relics" from the Holy Land.

We entered the excavation area through this locked door with a grate in it.

As you can see, it's quite deep under the present church. 

The area is now used as a storage room for various things used in the church, but one thing of particular interest was this picture of a boat on a stone, presumed to have been drawn by a pilgrim to the site sometime in the first part of the 4th century A.D. The inscription has been translated from the Latin to read "Lord, we shall go." Numerous scholarly articles have been written about this piece.

Not far outside the current Old City walls is the Garden Tomb. unearthed in 1867. Many Christian pilgrims like to visit this site because it is more evocative of what is usually pictured or imagined as the burial place of Jesus, though scholars have dismissed claims of its authenticity. That being said, the place is peaceful and beautifully maintained. When visiting, one often sees groups of visitors having prayer services in the outdoor "chapels" set in the beautifully landscaped grounds.

Adjacent to the site, you can look at what has been suggested to be Golgotha, the Place of the Skull. If your imagination is good, you may see the eyesocktets of a skull in the cliff.

This past Sunday was Easter, and we were able to attend a service at the Garden Tomb. The day was very cold for this time of year, with occasional rain and blowing wind, but we still found it moving to be celebrating the resurrection somewhere close by where it actually happened. Here are some photos taken at that time.

 

Inside the opening to the tomb, a sign reads: He is Risen. I wish for you the peace that belief in a resurrected Christ has brought to so many.
Peace, Salam, Shalom.

Birds-eye Views of Jerusalem

I've always thought seeing places from the vantage point of a flying bird would be an amazing experience. Recently, we've had occasion to accompany guests around Jerusalem, and we've visited several places which enabled us to get a bit more of a birds-eye view of the city. Here are some photos from those places.

Our friends took us to the Austrian Hospice, which is noted for its apple strudel and other goodies. From their rooftop one has some superb views of the city. Looking west, there's a good view of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, top right. From the ground, the entrance to the church is under impressive, but from the top, you can see the various domes.

Looking southeast, one sees the Armenian church in the foreground, and the gleaming golden Dome
of the Rock on the left.

While our partners, Sten and Terje, were working, Marianne and I decided to check out the view from the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer bell tower. The church itself is very plain, and the climb to the top of the bell tower was more significant than we expected.

One climbs a rather narrow circular staircase of 178 steps up 40 meters. Passing someone going the other direction requires squeezing tightly against the wall.

There are several landings along the way, which give a chance for a break.

Here are the bells.

And finally panoramic views from the top, looking west towards the temple mount with the Dome of the Rock and the Mount of Olives behind it. The tower on the Mount of Olives is the Church of the Ascension.

Looking south, one can see the Dormition Abby on the horizon in the right third of the photo

Looking northwest, the domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher are close up.

And finally, looking north, one can see Mt. Scopus on the horizon on the right third of the photo.

After descending the bell tower, we headed for Jaffa Gate to hike the Ramparts Walk on the Northern Wall of the Old City. In ancient times, sentries would walk where we did, guarding the city from attack. Everywhere today, guard rails protect you from falling off the walkway, but in the past, I can imagine the walkways being quite treacherous.

From the ramparts, one can see the rooftops of residences and business nearby. Some are well-maintained; others not so much.

Looking towards the west and the new part of modern Jerusalem.

The tower of the Italian Hospital building (now used as the Ministry of Education and Culture looks just like the tower on Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

These air spaces built above the wall are formed of terra cotta pots and allow for air flow, yet security.

Looking out towards the entrance plaza to the Damascus Gate.

The ticket for the Ramparts Walk lasts for two days, allowing visits to both the northern and southern sides of the wall. Sten joined me to walk the Southern Wall.

Looking west, you can see the famous King David Hotel with the YMCA tower in the background.

The Dormition Abby, just outside the southern wall.

As we approached the end of the southern section, we encountered a large group of Palestinian schoolgirls, practicing rappelling on this section of the wall. They seemed to be having a great time.

Some German friends took us to the Paulus Haus, a pilgrim hospice under the care of the German Association of the Holy Land on a recent evening. The night views from the roof of the building of the Damascus Gate and the city wall were pretty special.

I wish you all peace, salam, and shalom.